Unique insight into the fascinating world of the Kuku Yalanji

Indigenous culture

Shaun Hollis

Journalist

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Tour guide Chaseley Walker points out a pandanus fruit. Picture: Shaun Hollis

On November 28, 1961, a Kuku Yalanji couple from Mossman, and three of their six children, received a letter from the Queensland Director of Native Affairs granting them an exemption from the Aboriginal Preservation and Protection Acts 1939 to 1946.

This meant they now had greater freedom over their affairs, where they could live and whether they could raise their own children.

Three of their children, however, were living apart from them at Daintree Mission.

“These have not been included,” the Director’s letter states.

“In the absence of advice to the contrary it is presumed they are remaining there.”

This original letter is part of a treasure trove of old documents piled up in the musical-instrument-filled downstairs room of a house near the Cooya beachfront, offering a rare glimpse into one aspect of life in Far North Queensland in the 1960s.

Members of the Walker family, who run Walkabout Cultural Adventures, are happy to share such information as they strive to educate those who take their tours about the culture and history of the Kuku Yalanji Indigenous people.

As we pull up out the front of Mossman Gorge, our guide Chaseley explains how one of her not-too-distant ancestors gave birth near the creek there.

And she talks of her totem system, where each person is assigned an animal, such as the Boyd’s forest dragon lizard or the crocodile, which plays a central part in their cultural practices.

For example, if your totem is a crocodile, you are banned from eating them, Chaseley explains.

She shares her intimate knowledge of the bush tucker available - mud crabs at Cooya Beach, beach almonds growing along the shoreline, periwinkles in the mangroves, beach lettuce, wild ginger, green ants and pandanus.

She tells us about bush medicines her people have been using for thousands of years and points out huge orb spiders just above the walkway where oblivious tourists go to swim in the crystal-clear gorge waters. 

If you are interested in a hands-on insight into the fascinating world of the Kuku Yalanji people of FNQ, this is the tour for you.

For details, go to walkabouttours.com.au.

 

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